Harare to Malawi, via Mozambique: The Lake, Mountains and Malaria Tests

Due to our unexpected delay in the Caprivi we changed our route and instead of heading to Malawi from Zambia we would now get to the "Warm heart of Africa" by crossing through Mozambique's Tete Corridor. The border crossing from Zimbabwe was relatively smooth apart from the Police check. They wanted to see police clearance for the car, which, we did not have. We had been warned about this and the fact that it was not actually required and they were merely taking a chance. So after much discussion and me playing as dumb as possible, I apologised and promised to bring it with next time. I then asked "what else do you need from me" (a pretty loaded question). This sparked excitement in the lady cop, who suddenly awoke from her slumber on the table, and said "You can buy us a cooldrink". I could not contain myself an laughed out loud and denied her request politely, getting in the car and crossing into Mozambique.

The invisible line created by the border caused a change in the huts and villages we encountered. They were far smaller and more compact but occurred more often, dictating that one reduces ones speed to avoid any excuse for the notorious Moz Traffic Police to fine you. We had taken every precaution to avoid the attention of the cops and had two red warning traingles, a reflective vest, 3rd party insurance, a yellow and blue triangle sticker on the front of the car and all our documents copied and certified. We were invincible. Sadly, there was not a cop in sight to display our conformance to.

I am not sure what We were expecting of Tete, but, what we were greeted with was definately not it. Tete, although being a large city, is comprised mainly of small huts and shacks and the only large piece of architecture is the enourmous suspension bridge which straddles the Zambezi River. The bridge itself connects the southern and northern parts of Tete and carries hundreds if not thousands of people across the river every day. It was a typical bustling African city and we were going to sleep here for the night. Easier said than done. We had read about the one and only campsite and set out to find it. Travelling along a potholed dirt road, past huts and small stores, we were suddenly stopped by a throng of screaming kids. They were all shouting "Campsite, Campsite Campsite" in unison and pointing in the direction we had just come. We had missed it, not a good sign. The kids ran ahead of us and opened the gate to the "Campsite". I took one look at the patch of overgrown grass and decided we would not be camping there. Ang, however, had other ideas and quite liked the place. An argument ensued, which I lost, and we set-up camp on the banks of the Zambezi. In truth the campsite, although lacking a bit of TLC, was perfectly situated and a good place to absorb the sounds of the nearby families as they went about their evening routines. There was one other camper mad enough to camp there. Ben, from the UK, was backpacking through Africa by himself before heading to India on his round the world trip of two years. We got chatting and offered him a lift into Malawi, saving him an early start in order to catch a bus. After a good nights sleep we squashed Ben and his kit into the back of Michael and were off to a new country, Malawi!

At the border we acquired a friend, although his services were not required, Patrick seemed to like us and followed us around from immigration to customs and finaly to 3rd party insurance. When we were done Patrick politely asked for his payment. Payment? what payment? We asked. He then proudly announced he was a runner and he had helped us get over the border smoothly. We are learning, albeit slowly. we paid Patrick a fraction of his fee and headed to Blantyre. We were inistantly struck by the rolling green hills interupted by large granite domes. It was beautiful. The first police road block in a new country is always a tense affair. What would they need to see, would we have it, would they demand money etc. We were pleasantly suprised and at the first stop we were greeted with a big toothy smile and after exchanging pleasantries (no conversation here can start before asking how the other party is and them doing the same) he enthuisiastically said " Welcome to our country. Welcome to the warm heart of Africa". Warm indeed!

In Blantyre we did a bit of shopping but had to do without luxuries like butter, cheese and meat as it was crazily expensive as it was all imported from South Africa. Beans on toast it would be. The next day we made our way to the lake and specifically to Cape Maclear. It was this journey that we fully appreciated the multiple uses of the humble bicycle. Not only was it used as a mode of transport for the rider but for him and a passenger or 3. They also carried huge bags of charcoal, wood, reeds (for house building), fish, chickens (hung on strigs by their legs), live goats and pigs as well as other bicycles. These bicycles occupy a rather large area of the already narrow road and make for some interesting driving.

Cape Maclear is situated on a small peninsular on the southern shores of the lake, with views of the Thumbi and Domba islands that bob a few kilometres away. We liked this place and we would stay here for a bit. We set up camp only 10 meters from the water at the Fat Monkeys Lodge. All the lodges are located on the watres edge with the village situated around them and you really get the feeling that you are part of the everyday life of the residents. Fisherman stroll the beach with their catches of the night before, Kapenta (small fish) boats go in and out and local ladies wash their clothes. We organised a snorkelling trip to one of the island with one of the community guides and it proved to be one of the many highlights of our stay. the water was absolutly clear and the fish were pletiful. Hundreds of chiclids of all colours swam round us and occasionally the odd brave one would nibble at you toes. Snorkeling in the fresh water was great and being 28 degrees we stayed in the water for a good few hours. The snorkeliing was only interupted by some lunch on the island and a trip to the west of the island to "feed the Fish Eagles". I was a little aprehensive of this as it felt a little touristy and a bit like watching the lions getting fed at the zoo, but, I quickly discarded those thoughts as one of the fish eagles swooped down to snatch the fish we had thrown, from the water only 15m from our boat. It was amazing and to witness it so close made for some great shots.

Fat monkeys proved to be very popular with overlanders and we met an English couple, David and Jayne, that have recently come down the west coast of Africa from England and are now making their way up the east coast crossing into the middle east before heading to South East Asia and India, all in their 1996 Landrover Defender (risky). Check out their trip on http://www.lizzybus.com/. They plan to travel the world in their car and have taken 7 years to do it. It is meeting people like them that humble you and put things in perspective. We are not doing something unique by travelling through Africa in Michael. Unique would be cartwheeling the length of the continent naked. Overlanding is not new, but, everyone we have met doing it, loves it and have awesome memories and stories to tell.

After four days of relaxing, swimming in the lake and enjoying spectacular sunsets we left Cape Maclear in the rain that would follow us all the way to the Capital, Lilongwe. Here we would stock up with supplies and the medication for Bilharzia which could be contracted from swimming in the lake. We stayed at a backpackers and treated ourselves to take-aways for dinner. After a big shop off we headed north west into the Viphya Mountains for a bit of walking and bird watching. The road to the Luwawa Forest Lodge had taken a bit of a beating by the rain and the logging trucks and made for some white knuckle moments. Again Micael passed with flying colours. The Lodge is nesteld in huge plantations of pine, but, close by there are also large ares of indigenous forest which proved a good spot for birding. We met up with An and Jo (Belgians) here and enjoyed a walk through the forests and chilling in front of a huge fire place (it got a little chilly there being 2000m above sea level and with the rain). I woke early one morning to go on a guided bird walk and I managed to notch up a few lifers, the most exciting of which was a great sighting of Whyte's Barbet. Talking to George, the owner, he mentioned that there were in fact three roads one could take to get to the lodge and the one we had taken was very rarely used due to the state of the road. So it was decided we would take the path most often travelled on the way out and onto Nkhata Bay, our next stop.

A: We've been in Nkhata Bay for two days so far, and stayed at Njaya Lodge, a quiet spot with an amazing view. I haven't been feeling so good, but after a couple of sms's to Nads and Craig (our on-call doctors, thanks so much guys!) and lots of TLC from Grant, i'm definately on the mend! Yay! We are trying to send this blog through today and catch-up on emails etc. We were planning to head to Likoma and Chizumulu Islands today by taking the 8pm ferry, but after discovering an amazing gem of a place: Mayoka Village (a backpackers/lodge) we may just stay on here for a couple of days. Will see though.

Things Ange has learnt:

1. It's a lots harder to prick one's finger for a malaria test than one would have thought... picture grant making a running start and then chickening out as the lancet got close to my finger (the result was negative! Yay!)

2. Grant tolerates an ailing wife very well.

Things Grant has learnt:

1. March is the rainy month in Malawi.

2. Malawians battle to pronounce their R's and substitute it with an L instead (the chinese of Africa perhaps). Asking for directions can be quite interesting, for example: "you must drive on this load until a t-junction. Then turn light onto another load. It is a lough locky load. Then turn left and then light and light again" the problem is that i find myself repeating the directions using the new terms "light" for right and "load" for road.

We are using the internet at Butterfly Community Centre, an amazing spot where people are doing great things for the communicaty at Nkhata Bay. Painted on the walls are these words in Tonga on onde side and then the English translation on the other side:

"Linweka lidu likuta nkhuziwa kuti chimwemwe ndi vyaluta vidu chaziwika ndichandulu kukwaskana ndi wanthu wanyidu kuziya. Mukupereka ndi kuronde kuti tizenge vigawa vidu charo chose chapasi ndi ywe tawenecho".

"Hidden in our hearts is a longing to live deeply and with purpose and joy. To know and be known, to be concerned with another, and to make a difference. In the dance of giving and receiving, we create our community, our world and ourselves".