Katima Mulilo: The saga continues...

16 February 2011

The Lonely Planet's description of Katima is as follows: "Out on a limb at the eastern end of the Caprivi Strip lies remote Katima Mulilo, which is as far from Windhoek (1200km) as you can get in Namibia. Once known for the elephants that marched through the village streets, Katima is devoid of wildlife these days- apart from the hippos and crocodiles in the Zambezi- though it continues to thrive as a border town and minor commercial centre".

So, you may ask, what would a pair of lonely travellers do in this town, without a car (and all it's equipment) for ten days and counting (whilst waiting for a new hub for Michael's left rear wheel to be transported from JHB to Windhoek, and Windhoek to Katima)?

Well, a couple of things:

1. Book themselves into a B&B called Fish Eagles Nest which has one pre-erected tent in their garden for the 'budget traveller'.

 

The owners of the B&B, Frik and Mart-Marie have been absolutely wonderful to us. They have made us feel welcome and at home, offered us lifts into town, included us in all the local events in town and even took us for a boat trip on the Zambezi (more on that to come).

2. Join the local Chess Club.

We were invited to go along to the Chess evening by Christoff, the owner of Truck and Tractor (the second mechanic we decided to take Michael to). We had a wonderful time there and learnt alot about Chess too. We are now in the photograph of the Katima Chess Club, to be placed in their newsletter! Ha! After chess, we were invited by Helen, pictured below, to go to her house for dinner. We had a great evening, spoilt with delicious food and fascinating stories! (Dinner sorted for that night).

3. Get a shirt made.

In the centre of town there is an Open Market, a down-sized version of a typical African market, with different sections selling veggies, sitenges, fish, vetkoek, etc. I decided i'd like to get a shirt made and spent a while strolling through the aisles to choose a sitenge i liked. After we had haggled to get an acceptable price, we walked over to the ladies with sewing machines and drew a picture of what i wanted. The ladies took my measurements and had a good chuckle at my up-right stance. We returned the following day to pick it up. It's great! :)

4. Fall in love with a wooden bicycle and spend many hours making a plan to get it back to Jozi.

Disregarding our budget, we convinced ourselves that after all this drama we had to have this bicycle as a reminder of our time here in Katima and that a bicycle would have been a better mode of transport to travel through Africa than a Land Cruiser imported from Australia (sorry Michael). After asking around, phoning around and searching the town for bubble wrap, boxes and packing equipment, we have officially sourced couriers and if all goes according to plan, the bicycle should be on its way to Windhoek tomorrow. Yesterday we spent the entire day going from shop to shop asking for bubble wrap (which seems to be a foreign concept here) and boxes. We eventually found a huge box with the help from Jackson, the cleaner at Bears furniture. We lugged the huge box through town, turning heads all the way, until we arrived at the Craft Centre, home of lovely wooden bicycle. The packing process was great fun, with everyone having their say as to how best to pack it. After it was packed we all guessed how much it weighs and wrote our guesstimates on the box. So tomorrow the couriers scale will tell all. Think we'll go for a cool-drink with the packing-team after that :)

5. Go for a boat-trip on the Zambezi River.

Frik and Mart-Marie invited us to go with them on the River on Sunday. It was a great way to see a different side to Katima. The River is really full this time of year and at parts is 12 meters deep. All the different river-fronted properties and lodges were pointed out to us and we went to inspect a property owned by Mart-Marie's cousin that can only be accessed by boat. As we sped along the river on the way back, we were cooled down by a much-needed down-pour of rain, an exhilarating experience!

6. Accept an invite for a potjie-lunch looking over the Zambezi River.

We were invited to Louise and Tommy's house for a pojtie on Sunday afternoon. Their home is right on the river and we enjoyed an afternoon of delicious lamb potjie, amazing views and sounds of nature all around us. It really is very wild bush here- just the day before, their young ridgeback was exploring the water's edge and tragically attacked and killed by a crocodile :(

7.  Hire bicycles

When we found out that the wrong part had arrived in Windhoek on Monday this week and that we needed to now order the correct part from JHB and then learning that there was a truck strike going on, we decided that we need to source a more efficient mode of transport. We asked around, went looking in all the Chinese shops in town for cheap bicycles, and were just about to buy some bicycles and then sell them back when we left when we were offered to rent some. So now we have wheels! We are planning to cycle out of town and explore a bit more in the days to come.

8. Sulk and throw tantrums

We have to be honest: we have lost our cool a number of times in this whole Waiting-For-Car-Part process. We have also been totally baffled at the bizarre occurences that have kept the part at bay. We have pulled our hair out (Grant mostly), cried (me mostly), screamed (at each other mostly), and after all of that learnt to wait and trust. We can confidently say that we are so grateful that this 'hiccup' has occurred. We have met wonderful people, had all of the above experiences and more, and we have gotten to know Katima inside-out and we really feel like locals here.

9. Visit an orphanage

We heard about an orphanage just out of town called Children of Zion Village, and once we had our bicycles, we decided to buy a few goodies and go for a visit. We cycled about 14km to get there and had a great afternoon being shown around the premises, meeting the teachers and new directors of the orphanage, Travis and Lorna Curry, from USA. (Grant: The Children of Zion Village started in 2003 and has had some ups and downs but is still going strong with 59 children living on the premises, getting a quality education and all the love they deserve. Travis and Lorna have an amazing story of how God called them to the Caprivi. Read more about their story and the work they do at http://www.tlcinhisservice.org/ and http://www.childrenofzionvillage.org/. Andrew, start thinking about a soccer clinic here, on the banks of the Zambezi.)

Things Grant has learnt:
1. What a hub is, where it goes and what it does (also how hard it is to get one)
2. Africans love music, any music, as long as it is loud.
3. Cars are better on 4 wheels than 3.
4. God works in amazing ways and is patient but relentless in his pursuit of his children. God has taught us many lessons during this time here.

Things Ange has learnt:
1. How to "negotiate" a better price for sitengies in the market.
2. Postcards are hard to find in Katima Mulilo.
3. Doom is the Number One mosquito killer.
4. Riding a bicycle for the first time in many many months hurts the bum.

17 February 2011

Today we received some really good news, that despite the strike in South Africa, our new hub has made it's way to Windhoek, it is the right one and it will be attached to Michael on Friday (Ange's Birthday). A miracle really!

Although our time in Katima Mulilo in the Caprivi was unplanned and has left us feeling frustrated at times, we have had an awesome time. We have managed to see how the town works, meet some of its residents and get a insiders look at a day in the life of an African Town. Every day we have been amazed at the generosity of the people here, be it our wonderful and hospitiable hosts, Mart-Marie and Frik or the guys (Justin, George and Olga) at the craft centre who packed our wooden bicycle with such enthusiasm. We were lucky to break down here and although I hope it does not happen again, we will leave with very fond memories and many a story to tell.

Below is a crude map of our journey so far, we hope to be able to add more soon! (the black line is us)

Caprivi: Cruising the Okavango and losing our bearings

Well, we are currently sitting in Katima Mullilo, and we are not sure how long we will be here for. Mikey has not been well. But we'll start from where we left off and give more details on that later...

After leaving Etosha, we headed north to Rundu; spent the night there, did some shopping around town in the morning, and then were on the road again heading to the popular Ngepi Camp at the start of the Caprivi strip. This part of Namibia is  tropical, green, bushy and more densely populated by colourfully-dressed locals. It definately has more of an 'African' feel to it. Anyway, we got to Ngepi Camp and could understand why it is so popular and well-spoken of. Quirky signs lead you there, telling you how much further you have to go, teasing 4X4 drivers etc.

We had a quick look around the camp, and were really impressed with the place. We booked ourselves in for three nights- the first three-night stay on the trip so far! Our camp-site was situated right next to the Okavango River- amazing! The ablutions were very creative- King and Queen's throne toilets with reed walls on three sides and then looking out over the river. There was even a galvanised bath-tub positioned looking out over the river.

Our first day there, we did some-much needed washing of our clothes, and just chilled. The next day we were itching to explore the area, so we headed of to the Mahango Game Reserve in the morning, a really wild, bushy piece of bush where we spotted many animals, including Red Lechwe, which we've never seen before. They look like a mixture between a water-buck and an Impala.. Grant ticked off some lifers (Pygmy Goose, Southern Carmine Bee-Eater, Bradfield's Hornbill and Long Toed Plover), we visited the Giant Baobab in the Reserve and then went back to camp. There we did some cage diving, well kind of. They have a swimming pool in the Okavango River with a cage protecting you from the crocs and hippos.

That afternoon we went on a Makoro trip for two and half hours along the Okavango. Wow- what an incredible experience. Our guide expertly rowed us along the edge of the River, pointed out birds, indicated where the hippo were hiding (or not hiding), and educated us about the local tribes in the region and how they got to be in the Caprivi. (It is one thing hearing a hippo snort and then grunt from the safety of the river bank, but, being in a flimsy makoro only 50 or so metres away certainly got the blood pumping a little faster. The thought of a hippo swallowing the Makoro like it swallowed that chomp on TV did cross our minds a few times.)

Yesterday we left Ngepi camp and planned to head East along the Caprivi to one of the community-run campsites in the Bwabwata Nature Reserve. After about 20km's on the road, we heard a horrible clunking, screeching, grinding noise coming from the left rear wheel. Being in the middle of nowhere and heading further into it's territory we decided to head back to the small town of Divundu and see if we could get it looked at. We thought it may have been the brakes and after a few enquiries we were directed to the old shell petrol station. It no longer functions as a petrol station but there were some guys there that said they could help. At this stage it was not yet apparent if they were actually mechanics, but, they started taking the wheel off like they knew what they were doing. We got chatting as they inspected the brakes and we soon found out that they were actually in the "wood Business" as well as butchers, mechanics they were not. After tapping a few things on the wheel and shaking some bits about the one chap concluded that there was nothing wrong with the brakes. So we headed off, but, before that we parted with some cash after the "mechanic" made up some hourly rate that did not roll of the tongue as quickly as I (Grant) would have liked.

About 40km outside Divundu the noise started up again and this time the car was jerking. Not cool. We still had a good 300 km until Katimo Mulilo and any hope of getting a real mechanic to sort it out. we stopped several times and I got under the car like I knew what I was looking for and then asked Ange to drive forward slowly as I tried to listen where the noise was coming from. Anyone who passed us would have thought that these Mlungus were crazy, as I hunched over, ear to the wheel, walking slowly next to the moving car. Oh yes and it was about 100 degrees celcius. The journey from there on (we obviously decided to give the Bwabwata Reserve a skip and aimed to get to the next town- Katima Mullilo) was tense to say the least as we scanned the passing bush I kept on contemplating how or where we would camp if the car just stopped, and the signs warning of elephants did not help. I also kept wondering whether I could in fact run 100km in a day. We limped into Katima Mullilo and headed for the Zambezi, where we happened upon a Protea Hotel that offered camping. There we stayed and celebrated our unexpected arrival with a meal at the restuarant. Very extravagant.

This mornning, we drove to Caprivi Spares to seek help... Closer inspection of the troublesome wheel revealed that there was black oil leaking in quite large quantities. Never a good sign. Our worst fears were confirmed. The Wheel Bearing had siezed, in fact it had disintergrated into a mess of mangled steel and in the process did some damage to the hub. Now we wait as Mohammed and his contacts try and solve the problem. It has given us some time to walk around the town to take in the sights as well as purchase some very nice wife beaters (vests) for me as I am over t-shirts. We are yet to find out if Katimo will be our home for the next few days or if we will be heading to Zimbabwe soon.

Although this has been rather stressful and at times we felt totally useless we have learnt that there is always a solution and that Africans will make a plan somehow. They take it in their stride and offer their suggestions and advice without reservation. As long as you have time on your hands and a good sense of humour things will be ok. We have learnt (or been forced) not to take ourselves too seriously and relax a bit.

So, here are our "musings":
While we were at Ngepi, we asked that God would take control and help us release control of this trip and trust Him completely with all the details, small and big. We don't want this to just be a long 'holiday', we really want our characters and our relationship with Him and with each other to be deepened and enriched through this journey. So the next day when Mikey started to make such awful noises, we tried to approach the situation differently, from this different angle. Did we succeed? Maybe a little :)

Trip tunes:
Hippo grunting and snorting, elephants trumpetting, Pels fishing owl hooting, woodland kingfishers trrrrrrrrrring, and Fish Eagles calling.

Meals: Creamy Tomato chicken pasta, chops and roasted butternut, Viena sossousvlei..

Norman (or Poppy Pops), thanks for trying to assist us with part numbers and so on from Cape Town, if nothing else it was good to chat to you albeit very briefly.

Etosha; Okukeujo to Namutoni: Racing Rhinos and Springbok Cappacio

We spent most of the day driving from Ruacana towards Etosha, so we spent the night in Outjo, a town about 100km's from the gate to Etosha. The next morning, we packed up and did a quick grocery shop at the OK in town, searched for an Internet cafe, found one and saw that it was closed (Sunday), so we headed towards the Anderson gate at Etosha. After giving the first camp (Okakuejo) a once over and seeing that the campsites had no shade, we decided to give it a skip and drive through to Halali instead. We found a great spot and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing by the pool.

It is the rainy season for Etosha and most of Northern Namibia so the park was very green, with small pools of water everywhere. This, however, meant that we would have to look harder for the animals as they would no longer need to congregate around the waterholes. Despite this we had some awesome sightings.
At the Halali waterhole (a waterhole just outside the camp that can be walked to) one evening, as the sun was setting, two Black Rhinos emerged from the thick bush to come drink. It was a brilliant sighting. They were unaware that we were there and we were enjoying the spectacle free of the car. They drank for a bit and then proceeded to play fight, chasing each other around the waterhole and mock charging. There was something strange about the male rhino and we just could not out our finger on it, but, he looked different for some reason. Then we discovered that he was missing both his ears. Poor bugger, now he had poor eye sight and hearing.

Later that evening while enjoying another of Ange's culinary delights - Spaghetti Carbonara (we don't mess around with two minute noodles) - we were rather surprised when two Honey Badgers, completly oblivious of us, promptly turned over our bin to look for treats. I half-heartly tried to chase them away. Half-hearted for two reasons; one they are a pretty cool spot even if they are rummaging through your bin and two I was a little scared of them. These are the same no-fear creatures that take on Lions and I am by far an easier match than a Lion. So i left them to lick the empty bacon packet.

On the second day at Halali we saw a few more rhinos, both white and black. It was on the aptly named Rhino Drive, that we came apon 5 white rhinos and they confirmed my suspicions about not being the brightest crayons in the box, as they stood staring at us confused, coming closer only to suddenly retreat. when we finally passed them they started to jog next to us, and as we sped up, their jog turned into a full on gallop. It was remenicent of the horses that ran next to the cyclists in the Tour De France, except, they were Rhinos, not horses, we were in a car, not on a bicycle, and we were in Namibia, not France. Despite those differences, it was exactly the same. Very very cool indeed.

On our drive to Namutoni, a camp in the east where we planned to spend two nights, we saw two female lions cross the road in front of us and then disappear into the thick grass. It was during this drive that we got a good view of the pan and it was amazing. With all the rain it had filled up and in the distance was a pink mirage of flamingoes. There must have been thousands of them. towards the east the bush cleared up a bit and we were left scanning over large grassy plains. There were endless herds of springbok, intersperced with wildebeest, zebra, black faced impala and the occasional giraffe. This scene epitomises Etosha for me.

At Namutoni we again enjoyed some good sightings. One morning we were lucky enough to come across 5 lions, who also decided to cross the road in front of us. But the highlight for me was seeing a female cheetah and her cub feeding on a sprinbok they had taken down earlier on in the day. The cub was about 8 months old (or so we overheard a guide telling the 30 camera-clicking japanese tourists in the truck nearby) and although they both had really full stomachs they continued to deplete the sprinbok in an attempt to finish it off before the Hyenas got there. We stayed there for the better part of three hours and loved watching the interaction between the Cheetahs and the jackals that were attempting, unsuccesfully, to get a few scraps.

Etosha was amazing and it was so good to be in the bush again.

Swakopmund to Epupa: Bush Showers, Waterfalls and Swimming Lessons for Michael

After posting our last blog, we spent the day exploring the town of Swakopmund. Our accommodation was walking distance from the town centre, so we enjoyed stretching our legs and getting some excercise (Mom, you'd be pleased ;-)). Swakopmund is a great little town- small enough to see most of it, but also with enough people that there's a busy atmosphere. We window-shopped, visited Namibia Wildlife Resorts offices to enquire about the Skeleton Coast and  Etosha and even treated ourselves to coffee and a piece of cheesecake at Anton's- a well-known coffee shop. We also got a lovely dose of people company, bumping into a couple that we'd seen at most of the places we've stayed at so far and had a good chat to them (we found out that they are Swiss, but we call them The Mexican's because at one of our previous stops, we had read in the visitors book that the couple who arrived before us were from Mexcio.. and seeing the couple wearing sambrero-type hats, we incorrectly put two and two together, ha!). We also met a friendly couple from Natal, Brian and Gwyn, and really enjoyed chatting to them and hearing about their trip (they had spent three weeks in the North of Namibia, so we got some great advice on places to stay, birds to be spotted etc.).

After two nights in Swakop we drove inland for a short distance to the Spitzkoppe. The Spitzkoppe are huge mounds of enormous boulders plonked on flat ground. The campsite is run by the local community and each camping pitch is tucked away behind sections of these huge boulders. It is a beautiful, awe-inspiring place and unlike anything we have ever seen before. We booked ourselves in for two nights and looked forward to getting our first taste of 'roughing it'- there was no electricity, water or ablutions (except a long plop for each campsite).

We really relaxed there- spent the time walking through the reserve, swimming in the natural rock pools, bird-spotting, and reading. A highlight was having a Super Solar Shower, such fun and a real treat! It made us realise how priveledged we are to have hot, clean, running water 24/7 at home.

From there, the plan was to drive seaward again and head up the Skeleton Coast and camp at Torra Bay for the night. All went according to plan until we arrived at Torra Bay- a campsite open for the months of December and January only- that was overcrowded with fishing parties and would have cost us N$300 for the night plus an extra amount to have a shower!(we knew we were buggered the minute we entered the campsite. For starters we did not have 10 fishing rods, of varying lengths, strapped to the roof of the car and this was immediately noticed by the fishing parties and we got dirty looks over half full glasses of Brandy and coke.) So we had a quick look at the map and decided to push on inland for another 150km's to the Palmwag Concession in Southern Kaokoveld.

We camped the night at Palmwag Lodge, enjoyed their swimming pool and managed to agree to spend R70 on a personlised key-ring for Michael (fools!).

So, with expensive keyring hanging smugly from the ignition, we moved on the next day to Opuwo- a buzzing little town filled with a mix of people from the varying ethnic groups found in Namibia; Himba, Herero, Owambo, Mhlungu...over to G for the next bit...

After a short stay in Opuwo we headed further north to Epupa, to get a glimpse of the Kunene River tumbling down the falls. En route we stopped at a rather out of place German Fort that had been converted into a hotel. We had a coke and parted company with Sesfontein and it's fort. We were headed for the border of Namibia and Angola and the scenery slowly changed from semi dessert to a greener bush, but, just as many dry river beds were encountered (see insert on Namibian Roads). Epupa consists of a small village and a huge waterfall. One gets the impression that if the falls were not there then the village would cease to exist too as it relies soley on the tourism that the falls attract. We stayed at the Epupa Falls Campsite which is right next to the falls, so close that you are constantly srayed with a fine mist from the falls (like sitting at a Greenside Restuarant, minus the cuppucino, but, with a lot more flies). At times i thought we may be a bit too close to the falls and had images of the river rising slightly during the night and sweeping the Land Cruiser, Tent and all, over the falls. I am glad to say that did not happen, but, strangely, while sitting on the deck at the bar overlooking the falls, I got the urge on several occasions to jump into the raging torrent and try swim to a nearby reed island in the middle of the river just before the main falls. What I would do once I had got there, I was not sure, but the challenge was there. Again, I am glad to say that i never took up the rivers challenge as I am sure I would have been swept over the edge like a couple of tourists have been in the past. I concede, the river won.

Our 2 days at Epupa were awesome and it was the first time that we were able to just chill and not have to pack up camp and head off again. The sight of the falls from a nearby Koppie was amazing. The falls, consisting of hundreds of rapids and waterfalls, had enourmous Baobabs perched on rocky islands amongst the water. It also proved a good spot for a lifer or two and I managed to see the rare Rufous-Tailed Palm-Thrush. Very cool indeed.

We packed up camp and said good-bye to Epupa as our next stop was the Kunene River Lodge, which, as the name suggests,is right next to the Kunene on the border of Angola. We opted to do a bit of back tracking as the direct route, which followed a road along the river, was mostly flooded and we were keen to camp at the lodge rather than some mud pool en route. The lodge was amazing with huge trees in the campsite providing awesome shade (one of the 5 critical factors to making a good campsite) and in those trees were new birds to discover. We had a quick team meeting on the sun loungers next to the pool (another of the critical success factors) and made, in my opinion, the very wise decision to stay there for two nights as we had many chores to complete during our stay. We straight away commenced with one of the many chores and had a swim proceeded by a long read-off on the lounges, occasionally lifting our heads to survey the river or an interesting species of bird in the large tree above. It is tough in Africa, but someone has to do it. Another "job" to complete was a canoe down the Kunene. We were dropped off a couple of Km's upstream and left to navigate our way back to camp on our own. We did recieve a friendly warning by the guy who dropped us off that we could take a chance and swim in the river, which is home to a number of crocodiles, and, if we did swim he would just fetch his empty canoe as it drifted past the lodge. The paddle was brilliant, with not another soul around we were alone on this amazing river in Africa. The complete remoteness left us speachless as we drifted slowly among half summerged trees occasionally stopping at a small island to take in the sights. I am pleased to say that we found the lodge and that we missed the hungry crocs. Drink on the deck watching the sun set was a perfect way to end another great day in Namibia.

Time was moving on and our next destination was the Etosha National Park, but, it was not that simple. First we had to pilot Michael along 60km of the River Road to Ruacana. The manager at the Lodge said that we should make it and that the pools encountered along the road were small and there was always a detour if we wanted to chicken out. Well, "pool" is a very deceptive term, I would have perhaps used olympic size swimming pool to decribe sections of the road. At the first "pool" we came to, Ang, stick in hand, made sure it was shallow enough to pass through. It was and Michael ate it for breakfast. After a few more of these pools we were getting a bit cocky and at a particularly large pool (+/- 100m long), disregarded the detour and hit the water at pace. That pace was quickly reduced by the water which was a lot deeper than first thought and we had to drop Michael into 1st and give it serious horns through the water almost coming to a standstill a number of times. After what felt like a lifetime we were through, Michael spluttering a bit. Next time the detour would be used, and was with a little help from two Himba boys who, casually, climbed up onto the passenger side of the moving car, directing us with shouts of Yes Yes!!!, when following the right path and No No No!!! when I took the wrong route. Altough they gave us great directions they were also quite useful in deflecting a number of branches from scratching Michael, and Ange made sure they would not be swept off by clinging onto their arms. They were rewarded with a couple of apples, although, I think they may have wanted money rather, given that they shouted "money money money!" as we drove off. The worst was over and we quickly came upon the Ruacana Falls. We were lucky to see them in full flow as the dam built as part of a Hydro-electric power scheme has significantly reduced the flow of water over the falls. After taking a few pics, we carried on to Etosha!

Trip musings:
"Why has the pleasure of slowness disappeared? Ah, where have they gone, the amblers of yesteryear? Where have they gone, those heroes of folk song, those vagabonds who roam from one mill to another and bed down under the stars?" Milan Kundera
Slowness is a foreign concept to us back home, and this trip so far has provided us with a blissful, yet alarming introduction to it. Faced with so much time and so little to do, we felt guilty and lazy. But during the time we spent along the Kunene River, at both the Epupa Falls Campsite and Kunene River Lodge, we started to surrender to Slowness and its pleasures. We are looking forward to taking it in in larger doses in the weeks to come :-)

Things Grant has learnt:
1. Michael is not fond of swimming;
2. All the donkeys in Namibia are male and not shy to show you;
3. When a monkey poops on your car, it is better to let it dry in the sun and wind and then fall off rather than wipe it off when fresh. It also provides great entertainment on the open road as you watch the war of attrition between the wind and the poop.

Things Ang has learnt:
1. Scratching Grant under the chin feels just like scratching Bullie under the chin,
2. Examining other campers set-up structure and equipment through binoculars provides fantastic entertainment.

Meals:
Too many to mention, but some of the more palatable have been Bradwurst with garlicy potatoes, Spagetti with Basil pesto, veggie stew with cous cous, pap and boerie, veg and cashew nut curry.
Road trip tunes: David Gray, David Crowder, Dave Matthews Band, more Jesus Culture.
Backgammon score: Ange 5, Grant 3.
Camp set-up time: 30 minutes
Camp pack-up time: 60 minutes

Mom! Happy Birthday for yesterday, Hope you had a good one.